We started off early, well, as early as possible after hearing the history of coffee (Italian is superior) and why the English are drunken yobs, the Germans stupid, the Dutch are great at wearing clogs, etc…. from sweet natured Ursula. We easily found our red and white markers and headed out of town in the direction of Sao Luis (25km.) The weather forecast had warned of rain all day. The rain started as a gentle mist that felt refreshing as we slogged up the hills and we enjoyed it, not stopping to put our raincoats on at first. This was a mistake. We got wet. We learned a lesson. 

We came across some land that was protected by fencing, a large sign warning walkers to close the gates to prevent the cattle escaping. Jolien was unsure what a cattle might be, it was not an animal she had heard of before. I reassured her that although it was a vicious beast they generally avoided human contact but that she should listen out for the following sounds and walk quickly, keeping a tight hold on her stick…

The rain continued to fall and of course we now had our rain jackets on, Jolien trying out her fancy new 4 euro purchase to see if it really was as high quality as it looked and felt. It did okay! It ripped a couple of times, but only if she was careless enough to allow her hand to make physical contact with the plastic, but overall it was fairly waterproof. At one point she asked me to look inside her pockets to see if they looked damp, and I could tell from the deep pools of water and debris floating, that they were indeed ‘damp’ but overall we both agreed it was a successful purchase. Much of her middle torso was as dry as a dry thing. We crossed a valley, climbed steeply through a beautiful,tropical looking forest with trees laden with fluffy streamers of moss, and returned to lower ground once more, all through mud and rain, but our spirits could not be dampened and we laughed in the face of Zeus himself

We crossed a valley, climbed steeply through a beautiful,tropical looking forest with trees laden with fluffy streamers of moss, and returned to lower ground once more, all through mud and rain, but our spirits could not be dampened and we laughed in the face of Zeus himself.

Following a small river, we came to a soggy picnic table. The rain was holding off a little so we took the opportunity to eat our peppercorn cous cous. Jolien had had an unfortunate incident with a loose lidded pepper mill and the salad was barely edible but we persevered, experimenting with the addition of

peanut butter and apple, (the contents of our mobile larder….)These ingredients added nothing good to the party. Lunch was a cold, wet and miserable affair cut short by the return of the rain, but still we laughed, and chewed gum to try to forget the rancid flavours.

The terrain turned from woodlands and riverbeds…

in to green fields and farmland. Steady but dull, the last 5km of muddy tracks seemed to take forever. With no real roads in sight we had no option to switch to hitch and plodded on determinedly, the Wetherspoon march in full swing, dreaming of a rest and a beer. We were relieved to see

the small town of Sao Luis ahead and headed straight in to the first bar we found, Gabriela’s. This was a find! Gabriella herself was gruff and kind and brought us huge glasses of warming red wine for just a euro each. It was too cold for beer and the wine warmed us, giving us the energy we needed to continue in to town and find our AirB&B – The Penguin Room.

The place was distinctly disappointing with a capital D, like this, Disappointing. There is a reason the penguin man does not show pictures of the bathroom(s) on the AirB&B site, and they are not good reasons. There was a urinal in the shower room – that is weird and creepy! The shower room had a blokes sign on the door and the toilet a ladies. Both were freezicating! Like being outside! Attached to these strange institution like tiled conveniences was a freezing bedroom with 2 nicely made beds. We wandered in to the adjoining bar to talk to the penguin himself, who looked spookily similar to The evil Penguin… Twins, no?

Jolien led negotiations (she is rather good!) and requested a heater, stressing we deserved one for the 35 euros a night we were paying – a high budget accommodation for us. Penguin, like his evil twin, basically laughed at us and suggested we position our wet selves in his bar next to the fire until we were ready to sleep in our shed house. I have not seen the Batman film but I am pretty sure the actual Penguin did something just as dastardly. We left to eat and drink elsewhere, cross with the penguin. We needed cheering up and so headed back to the lovely rustic friendly local bar that was Gabriela’s. Gruff, kind, matronly Gabriela brought us home-made potato and vegetable soup with crusty bread, more red wine and cakes for desert, all for just over 4 euros a head. We returned to our meagre lodgings contented, warm and full, and found Penguin had given in to our demands, no doubt in fear of a crap review being left on AirB&B, and left a radiator in the room. There was no internet, but the beds were surprisingly comfy and we slept well in the now warm but humble shack.