I slept as best a could in the cheap night coach to Seville, which was not very well at all. The foot rest had just one setting, designed for the legs of giant’s, and my tiny legs hung uncomfortably above. After trying out various positions, taking care not to disturb the slumbering giant woman beside me, I settled for the curled up cat position, body crammed in to the foot-well and head resting on the seat. My feet stuck out in to the aisle and I woke at every stop to clamber back in to my seat so as not to be chastised for being a fire hazard. The coach left Madrid at midnight and finally arrived in to Seville Bus Station at 06:05. To celebrate finishing the hideous journey I devoured my final Lidl pastry (a butter croissant) and googled a map to find out were the folks were staying – a little hotel by the name of Hotel Patio de las Cruces in the old town. A few local on their way to work, a jogger and a photographer directed me on my way and I finally found the cute hotel nestled on a tiny street a stones throw from the beautiful cathedral.

Barbara came to let me in and the old guy on reception gave us a smile, not seeming to mind a visitor arriving in to his place. The hotel was lovely, with internal courtyards decorated with pretty pot plants and ornate tiles – very Seville! Tom and Barbara were in a sweet, super clean twin room and I climbed in to one of the recently vacated beds to get some much needed kip.

The folks headed off to take a look at the Cathedral and surrounding area, picking up 3 credentials from the Cathedral Office (2 euros a pop) ready for our journey ahead, returning at about 11am to wake me from my restful slumber. Showered and packed, we checked out and wandered toward the Cathedral to find our first yellow arrow. We dropped by the Cathedral entrance to receive our first stamp in our credentials from a helpful but grumpy man. It was already past midday at this point, and we had a 24km walk to the next albergue, but we all decided we were hungry and should take our first break! We needed a restaurant!

A couple of well to do elderly Spanish gentlemen passed us by and spotting our tell-tale pilgrim rucksacks, shouted ‘Buen Camino!’ Clearly happy to have spotted some peregrinos they continued to offer us advice on which way to go as we appeared to be going off course in our search for a restaurant. We explained, in our very basic Spanish, that we were not lost, but looking for some nourishment! They launched in to a discussion on where might be the best place to send a group of pilgrims for lunch and we heard the word ‘economic’ – they were trying to think of a cheap place for us. We must look impoverished! Another fellow stopped to offer his language skills, and the discussion continued. A few more locals stopped to offer their advice and the ever increasing crowd came to a consensus. We should be sent to the local Social Club ‘Centro de Participacion Activa’ – a place for the elderly , homeless and generally economically deprived to get a decent meal. Excellent! Hilarious but excellent! Just up our street, both figuratively and literally. The Social Centre offered 2 menus. The first was only for those who had a food stamp, the second was for any waif or stray. For 6 euros 50 we were offered a starter, main, desert and a drink. A most friendly waiter took us slowly though the Spanish menu and we enjoyed a simple but delicious feast of local Spanish dishes, polished off with a coffee!

Well fed, we were ready to start our day’s hike! It was already gone 2pm so we increased our walking speed and got in to serious pilgrim mode.

The first 10km were not the most inspiring – we took in the sights of Seville’s industrial area walking along a busy road. Tom was excited to spot a giant Chinese bazaar as he had been admiring my 4 euro plastic clogs (always available from said shops) and Barbara was hoping to purchase a cheap towel (hers was left in Birmingham.) Shopping complete and spirits lifted by a successful mission we continued on our way. The route was well waymarked with painted yellow arrows and pretty soon we found ourselves on an old Roman track, straight as a die, through fields of green sprinkled with pretty wild Spring flowers – poppies, daisies and lavender.

We had read in the Kelly guidebook that we may come across a ford that was often flooded and impossible to pass without asking for help from a passing tractor. As we approached said ford we realised that we had not encountered any tractors, or indeed any vehicles of any sort and hoped against hope that the water levels would be low. We read in the book that it was possible to take a detour around the ford but only by adding another 3km to the walk, and having left so late we were against the clock – darkness would arrive by 7pm! The water was indeed high and impossible to pass without swimming attire and breathing apparatus but luckily for us some kind soul had installed a make do bridge – a narrow metal 20 foot beam bridging the muddy banks.

We tentatively edged our way across, tight rope style, eyes straight ahead with no looking down. Phew! We had faced our first challenge and conquered our first Camino fears! We were at least half way through our hike and it was time for a celebratory biscuit break. On we hiked through the fields and open countryside for a further 12 km. The sun began to set and then, through the gloom of dusk we spotted our destination town – Guillena! As we entered the town the waymarks spilt, one set directing people to the municipal albergue and the other set taking pilgrims along the main road and past the new Albergue Luz del Camino de Plata. An insistent local man spotted us and advised the latter route – perhaps a friend of the owner? As we approached the albergue a friendly woman crossed the street to explain that she was the proprietor and could offer us a 4 person room for 10 euros a head. Sold! The albergue was in an old town house with our private room downstairs. She showed us around explaining that we were to use the bathroom and toilet upstairs were there was also a kitchen and another larger dorm. room which was already packed with 7 or 8 fellow pilgrims. We settled ourselves in and explored the joint. I discovered there was actually a bathroom downstairs next to our accommodation and we decided there would be no harm in using it- we would be discreet and she would never know! Showered and dressed for the cooler evening temperatures we headed out to find some dinner. A local spotted us and proceeded to advise us on where we could get an ‘economica’ meal. Again!

We must really look poor! We were directed to another social project and enjoyed a simple but tasty 6 euro 3 course meal with wine! Delicious! Fed and content, we headed back to our humble lodgings for a much needed rest! A lovely first day and a great start to our Camino adventure!